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April 2007

Reflection:

As an apprentice at the age of 15, in the small town of Questembert, every spring I would go to the farmer's market with my chef and mentor, Georges Paineau, to gather wild berries and strawberries that grew along the coast of Brittany. Bushels of fragrant strawberries from Plougastel harvested at dawn and still covered with the ocean mist. Their subtle, sweet and floral aroma would take over the fruit stand. Pints of blackberries, fraise des bois, raspberries, golden and deep red currants, boysenberries and mulberries would create a rainbow of colors and feast for the bees.
Back at the restaurant, a two star Michelin, Le Bretagne, in the cobalt blue tiled kitchen, we would whisk egg yolks, sherry and sugar in a large copper bowl to create a sabayon, the perfect marriage for our berry gratin.

Tip:

Berries are very delicate and delicious gifts from nature. The best time to eat berries are when they are in season. If you can, pick berries yourself . By not refrigerating the berries, the flavor profile is more intense. Berries have good nutritional benefits; high in vitamin C, minerals and antioxidants. Berries are very versatile and best used without manipulation. Raw is best. Berries pair well with other fruits such as peach, apple, apricot, papaya, mango and make wonderful shakes.

To freeze berries: Wash berries and pat dry. Spread in a single layer on a tray, cover with plastic wrap and freeze until solid. Pack frozen fruit into zip lock bags, taking care to remove air from the bags. Freeze for up to 3 months.


Recipe
:

"Wild Berry Gratin Sherry Sabayon"
serves six


Sherry Sabayon
9 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
3/4 cup dry sack sherry wine
1 lemon, juiced
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. honey
dash vanilla extract
Whisk yolks in sugar in medium stainless steel bowl. Whisk in sherry and lemon juice. Set bowl over of simmering water (do not let bowl touch water). Beat with electric mixer until fluffy and stiff. Be careful to not over cook or eggs will curdle. Place bowl over larger bowl filled with ice water. Whisk until cool. In separate bowl beat cream, honey and vanilla until stiff peaks form. Gently fold into sabayon.

Wild Berries
1 1/2 cups blackberries
1 1/2 cups raspberries
1 1/2 cups strawberries, stemmed, quartered
1 1/2 cups blueberries
6 sprigs mint
1 Tbsp. powdered sugar


Pre-heat broiler. Divide berries equally among 6 shallow baking dishes. Top with sabayon. Place under broiler. Cook until golden brown. Dust with sugar. Garnish with mint sprig.


 

Bon Appetit!!
Executive Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room, La Jolla, California





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