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March 2007

Reflection:

Brittany in spring is a marvelous spectacle of flowers blooming on rolling hills. It is the celebration of the awakening of the gardens. My uncle Gene and Aunt Odette had a large farm very close to the Mont St. Michelle, one of the marvels of the world. Mont Saint Michel is a small UNESCO World Heritage-listed island located just off the coast of the northern French region of Basse-Normandie, on the border with the neighbouring region of Brittany (the island shares cultural and geographical affinities with both regions). The island is best known as the site of the spectacular and well-preserved medieval Benedictine Abbey of St Michel at the peak of the rocky island, surrounded by the winding streets and convoluted architecture of the medieval town. All around the Mont St. Michelle, lamb are raised on short salt marsh which gives a very special taste and aroma to the meat. At Easter time, my uncle Gene would select a couple of lamb from the farm to be harvested for the family feast. In the back of the vegetable garden, he had built a wood fire bread oven so large that we were able to cook the lamb, the bread and the vegetables at the same time. He would warm up the oven gently with wet sage, thyme and rosemary to scent the stone. Then load the oven with the bread first. When the bread was ready, the lamb and the vegetables would be slowly roasted for about four hours. During that time, everyone would gather at the house. The children would play together running through the garden and the daisy field surrounding the area. The adults would play bacci ball, also called boule Bretonne and drink my uncle's hard cider. It would then be time for the feast. The family would gather around a long table that would seat about 40 people. Joy, laughter and celebration would then take place.

Tip:

Seasonings and cooking ideas for lamb are limited only by the imagination. Lamb can be flavored with curry powder for a taste of India. Lamb seasoned with oregano and garlic echoes the flavors of Greece. Lamb also can be prepared to reflect the cooking styles of regional America. Jalapenos will add a taste of the Southwest. Or lamb might be prepared California-style using garlic and fresh thyme. When roasting a leg of lamb, cook to an internal temperature if 135? degrees. Remove from oven and let rest for 20 minutes. The roast will be tender, juicy and cooked to a perfect medium rare to medium.

  • Rub a mixture of herbs on lamb before broiling or roasting.
  • Cut several small slits at one-inch intervals over the surface of lamb and insert garlic slivers.
  • Mix herbs with ground lamb and form patties or a loaf.
  • Marinate lamb with a blend of seasonings and wine or dry sherry.
  • Add seasonings to lamb stews, soups and casseroles.
  • Baste or brush lamb with a mixture of herbs and broth.


Recipe
:

"Garlic Studded Roast Leg of Lamb"
Goat Cheese Twice Baked Potato, Warm Green Bean Salad
Honey Glazed Shallots, Cardamon Sauce
serves six


Garlic Studded Roast Leg of Lamb
1 - 3 pound leg of lamb, boneless, trimmed
6 cloves garlic, peeled, halved
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped
** sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
½ stick unsalted butter
Pre-heat oven to 375°.
Make 12 - half inch deep slits in lamb. Insert garlic cloves. Rub lamb with thyme, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat olive oil and butter in heavy roasting pan to foamy. Add lamb. Lightly brown on all sides. Place in oven. Roast 45 minutes, until meat thermometer inserted in thickest part registers 130°. Baste with pan juices every fifteen minutes. Remove lamb to carving board with well. Let stand 20 minutes.

Goat Cheese Twice Baked Potato
3 large baking potatoes, scrubbed, dried
4 oz. goat cheese
2 eggs, separated
2 Tbsp. crème fraîche
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
dash cream of tartar
** sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prick potatoes. Bake until tender. *note place potatoes and lamb in oven at same time. Remove potatoes from oven. Cool potatoes. Cut in half lengthwise. Gently scoop insides into bowl. Mash flesh together with cheese, egg yolks, crème fraîche, butter and parsley until smooth. Whip egg whites with cream of tartar in bowl until stiff peaks form. Gently fold into potato mixture. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon mixture back into potato skin. Set on baking sheet. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes or until slightly golden.

Honey Glazed Shallots
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. honey
pinch cayenne pepper
1 lb. shallots, peeled
½ cup chicken stock
¼ cup honey liquor
** sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Melt butter in large saucepan. Add honey, pinch of salt and cayenne pepper. Stir well. Place shallots in pan in single layer. Add stock and honey liquor. Cook over low heat stirring occasionally until shallots are tender and liquid reduces to syrupy consistency. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Warm Green Bean Salad

1 ½ Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar
1/3 cup walnut oil
1 pound haricot vert
3 heirloom tomatoes, peeled, seeded, diced
1 tsp. tarragon, chopped
** sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Whisk vinegar and oil until emulsified. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook beans in plenty of boiling salted water until crisp tender, about 5 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Transfer to large mixing bowl. Toss with remaining ingredients.

Cardamom Sauce
½ cup red onions, chopped
¼ cup carrots, peeled, finely diced
¼ cup celery, finely diced
½ cup Shiraz wine
½ tsp. freshly ground cardamom
1 small cayenne pepper, finely diced
1 cup beef stock
to taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Degrease roasting pan. Add onions, carrots, and celery. Brown well. Add wine, cardamom, and cayenne pepper. Cook 1 minute. Add beef stock. Reduce by ½. Strain through fine sieve. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Presentation
Carve lamb in thin slices. Place green bean salad in center of warm plate. Arrange sliced lamb aside. Top with honey glazed shallots. Place potato opposite sliced lamb. Drizzle with cardamom sauce.


 

Bon Appetit!!
Executive Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room, La Jolla, California





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