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November 2007

Reflection:

Hey Pumpkin… The pumpkin pie originated when the colonists cut off the head of the pumpkin top, removed the seeds, and filled the insides with milk, spices, and honey. Then they baked the pumpkin in hot ashes. Also, early colonists used pumpkin meat as an ingredient for the crust of pies, not the filling Pumpkins are native to the New World and related to squashes, cucumbers, and cantaloupes. Early references go back many centuries, and the name pumpkin originated with the Greek word for “large melon,” or “pepon,” meaning “cooked by the sun.” The French nasalized “pepon” and it became “pompon.” Then the English changed “pompon” to “pumpion,” which can be found in Shakespeare’s Merry Wives of Windsor. New World colonists changed “pumpion” into “pumpkin.” In the New World, the pumpkin’s ancestors can be traced back 9,000 years to Mexico. Native Americans used pumpkins for food long before any European settlers arrived by drying strips of pumpkin and cutting them into mats. They also cut strips of pumpkin and roasted them on an open fire to get them through the long winters. As centuries passed they learned many ways of enjoying the inner meat of the delicious and nutritious winter squash: baked, boiled, roasted, fried, parched, or dried. They also used pumpkin seeds for medicine. The Native American term for pumpkin is “isquotm squash.”

Tips:

• When making pie crust, use ice water and cold shortening for a flaky crust.
• Do not over work dough.
• Chill the dough for 1 hour before rolling it.
• Pies can be made year round. Use the fruits that are in season for best results and flavor.
• Experiment with other squash fillings. My favorite is kabocha – dense, sweet and sexy.
• Sugar pumpkins are usually labeled by the market for cooking purposes.
• For a beautiful finish, glaze a double crust pie with an egg wash.
• Bake pies on the lower rack of the oven where the concentrated heat will cook the bottom crust as nicely as the sides.
• About half way through baking, check on pies. You may need to cover it with foil to prevent over browning.
• Add filling just before baking or bottom crust will be soggy.
• Use a knife dipped in hot water to cut all creamy pies into clean slices.
• A nice glass of 2005 Tokaji Furmint, Vin Santo or Oloroso Sherry.

 


Recipe:

"Divine Pumpkin Pie "
Chantilly Cream, Spiced Walnuts


Pie Shell
2-1/2 cups all purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2-1/4 sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2” pieces
6 tablespoons ice water
as needed pie weights or raw beans for weighting shell

Combine together flour, sugar, and salt in food processor. Scatter butter over flour mixture. Pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Transfer mixture to bowl. Sprinkle ice water over mixture. Toss to combine. Press together to form dough. Form into disk. Wrap in plastic wrap. Chill 1 hour. Place dough on lightly floured surface. Roll out to 1/8” thickness with rolling pin. Fit into 10” pie plate. Trim, leaving ½ inch overhang. Crimp edges. Pierce bottom of shell all over with fork. Cover with plastic wrap. Chill 30 minutes. Pre-heat oven to 425°F. Line shell with foil. Fill with pie weights (or raw beans). Bake in middle of oven 10 minutes. Carefully remove foil and weights. Bake shell until golden, 5 minutes more. Cool on rack.


Filling
1-1/2 cups baked pumpkin puree (can be substituted with canned)
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 cup sweet butter
2/3 cup granulated sugar

Pre-heat oven to 400°. Combine pumpkin puree, heavy cream, flour, syrup, vanilla and spices in mixing bowl. Add egg yolks. Blend well. Melt butter over low heat in small saucepan. Cook until golden brown. Immediately stir into pumpkin mixture. Set aside. Beat egg white in mixing bowl until soft peaks form. Add sugar. Continue beating until firm peaks form. Gently fold egg white mixture into pumpkin mixture. Pour filling into pie crust. Bake 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F. Bake until filling is fully set, approximately 20 minutes.


Chantilly
1 cup chilled whipping cream
2 tablespoons honey
Beat all ingredients in mixing bowl until stiff peaks form. Set aside. Refrigerate.


Spiced Candied Walnuts
1 cup walnuts
6 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons walnut oil
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
pinch cayenne pepper

Combine sugar, honey, walnut oil, butter, and cayenne pepper in heavy skillet. Cook over low heat until sugar dissolves and mixture simmers. Add walnuts. Cook until walnuts turn deep caramel color. Stir constantly with wooden spatula until walnuts are well coated. Place onto foil sheet or marble surface. Work quickly to separate walnuts with wooden spoon. Let cool.


Presentation
* mint sprigs
Cut pie into six slices.
Garnish each slice with dollop of chantilly, spiced candied walnuts, and mint sprig.

 

Bon Appetit!!
Executive Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room, La Jolla, California





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