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October 2006

Reflection:

Fall is creeping on us. There is a chill in the air. Driving to Julian, I can see the change in the color of the leaves. I am on my way to Lake Cuyamaca for a little bit of fishing. Unfortunately for me, there is a breeze on the lake and the trout are not at the rendezvous. Driving back to the house, I stop by my favorite butcher shop in Carlsbad, Tip Top Meat. As I entered the shop, there is an array of root vegetables...fresh, vibrant and aromatic. I've got the rush. Do they have any lamb shanks? It is Osso Bucco night. The marine layer has just taken over the street. It is damp and cool. Yes, I can see six beautiful Osso Bucco, about a pound and a half each. Those babies are mine. On my left there is a display case of old vine zinfandel St. Francis Estate. I love to drink the wine, but I know that the Osso Bucco will braise well. I ordered the whole thing. On my way out I can already taste this wonderful dish. Rustic, warm and tasting of Fall.

Tip:

Ask your butcher for a volcano cut which is the cutting of the top part of the bone that has very little meat. It will be easier to braise as it is shorter in to your cast iron pan. Roast the lamb shank on all sides until nice and golden brown. Season with salt and pepper all over the shank. When braising, use a good red wine and make sure that you pour a glass for yourself. Braising is always done at low tempurature to avoid shrinkage and promote tenderness.


Recipe:

"Old Vine Zinfandel Braised Colorado Lamb Osso Bucco"
Root Vegetables, Preserved Fruit Polenta
serves six


Gremolata
1/4 cup parsley, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 lemon rind, grated
Combine all ingredients. Set aside.


Old Vine Zinfandel Braised Colorado Lamb Osso Bucco
3 Tbsp. grape seed oil
6 1 lb. - 1 ½ lbs. lamb shanks, volcano cut, if possible
2 cups carrots, peeled, cut into 1/2" diced
2 cups celery roots, peeled, cut into 1/2" diced
1 cup parsnips, peeled and cut into ½" diced
1 cup pearl onions, peeled
6 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
6 sprigs thyme
3 bay leaves
6 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed
1 bottle old vine zinfandel
2 cups vegetable stock
** sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pre-heat oven to 350 F. Heat oil in large oven-proof lidded casserole (Dutch oven) over high heat until oil is almost smoking. Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Add to pot. Brown on all sides. Remove shanks. Reduce heat to medium. Add carrot, celery, parsnip and onion. Cook until vegetables are nicely caramelized, scraping bottom of pan 5 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, thyme, bay leaves, and garlic. Pour in old vine zinfandel. Return shanks to pot. Cover with vegetable stock. Bring to boil. Cover pot. Braise in oven until fork tender, about 2 hours. Remove shanks and vegetables. Set aside. Keep warm. Skim fat from liquid. Place pot on stove top over medium heat. Reduce by half. Season to taste. Return lamb shanks and vegetables to pot with sauce. Sprinkle with gremolata. Place back in oven 10 minutes.


Preserved Fruit Polenta
4 cups vegetable stock
pinch saffron
1-1/2 cups cornmeal
1/2 cup roasted pine nuts
1/4 cup diced sun dried plums
1/4 cup sliced sun dried apricots
1/4 cup sun dried cherries
1/4 cup quartered sun dried figs
1/2 cup goat cheese
** sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place vegetable stock and saffron in heavy saucepan. Bring to boil. Slowly stir in cornmeal . Lower heat to simmer. Stir constantly 15 minutes. Polenta should be consistency of mashed potatoes. Thin with more vegetable stock if necessary. Fold in pine nuts, fruits, and goat cheese. Stir until melted. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Keep polenta warm in double boiler.


Presentation
1 Tbsp. truffle oil
6 sprigs lemon thyme
Place osso bucco on warm shallow pasta plate. Scoop polenta beside osso bucco. Ladle vegetables and sauce on top of osso bucco. Drizzle with truffle oil. Garnish with lemon thyme sprig.

 

Bon Appetit!!
Executive Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room, La Jolla, California





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