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October 2007

Reflection:

October is prime time hunting season in Brittany. There is a vast forest and rolling hills behind my family’s home where I grew up. It is the perfect habitat for rabbit, pheasant, quail and squab...a hunter’s paradise. Family and friends would gather at dawn to work out their strategy to be back by noon with their loot. As kids, we would be forbidden to play in the woods during hunting season. The shots of the hunting rifles sounded like cannons to me, but I loved the serenade of the sleek hound dogs singing victory after each catch. My grandmother would also sing - a different note- of course, when my uncles would bring beautiful quails to the kitchen. It was like Babette’s feast…you had to pluck, clean and get those delicacies ready. Roasted, grilled, barbequed or simply braised, quail are the perfect fare when fall is knocking at the door.

Tip:

• If you cannot locate fresh quail, thaw in his original wrapping or place in water tight bag in the refrigerator.

• Wash quail thoroughly in cold water before cooking. Pat dry with paper towel.

• Roasting technique: Cook until internal temperature reaches 145°F degrees. Rest for 10 minutes before carving.

• Quail are low in fat. Baste constantly when roasting.

 


Recipe:

"Five Spice Lacquered Quail"
Heirloom Vegetable Ratatoulle, Red Lentils
serves six


Five Spice Glaze
1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, pureed
1 lime, zested and juiced
1 Thai bird chile, stemmed, finely chopped
1/4 cup tamari (natural Soya sauce)
1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
3 Tbsp. honey
1 tsp. freshly grated ginger
1/4 tsp. ground star anise
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. sweet paprika
Combine all ingredients in small saucepan. Simmer over low heat 10 minutes to glaze consistency.


The Quail
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 cup peeled, diced eggplant
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced Italian zucchini
4 medium heirloom tomatoes, diced
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 red bell peppers, roasted, seeded, julienned
1 yellow bell pepper, roasted, seeded, julienned
1 orange bell pepper, roasted, seeded, julienned
1 Tbsp. chopped basil
4 sprigs opal basil
to taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in large skillet until very hot. Add eggplant. Sauté over medium heat. Stir constantly. Add remaining olive oil. Add onion and zucchini. Cook 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, and garlic. Cook 10 minutes, or until liquid has evaporated. Add julienned peppers and basil. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.


Heirloom Vegetable Ratatouille
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 cup peeled, diced eggplant
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced Italian zucchini
4 medium heirloom tomatoes, diced
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 red bell peppers, roasted, seeded, julienned
1 yellow bell pepper, roasted, seeded, julienned
1 orange bell pepper, roasted, seeded, julienned
1 Tbsp. chopped basil
4 sprigs opal basil
to taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in large skillet until very hot. Add eggplant. Sauté over medium heat. Stir constantly. Add remaining olive oil. Add onion and zucchini. Cook 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, and garlic. Cook 10 minutes, or until liquid has evaporated. Add julienned peppers and basil. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.

Red Lentils
2 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1 cups red lentils
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
1 Tbsp. almond oil
2 lemons, juiced
dash Tabasco to taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring 2 1/2 cups vegetable stock to boil in large pot. Cook red lentils approximately 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Rinse under cold water. Drain. Add remaining ingredients. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Divide into six ramekins.


Presentation
6 sprigs basil
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
Place ratatouille in center of warm serving plate. Top with five spice lacquered quail. Unmold red lentil ramekin beside. Garnish with basil sprigs. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.



 

Bon Appetit!!
Executive Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room, La Jolla, California





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