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September 2007


Reflection:

Tomatoes are a family affair. They have left an imprint that has been with me since I was a young boy growing up in Brittany. The planting was done in early June at my uncle Jean’s garden patch located a couple of miles from the Atlantic coast. Being close to the ocean, the tomatoes were harvested mid to late September. Chicken manure was his secret weapon in making the field our Garden of Eden. The seven feet tall vines – at least a hundred of them – would produce a rainbow of colorful, large fruits weighing up to 2 pounds each. Running through the fields with my cousins playing hide and seek and slapping the leaves with our palms would leave a distinct aroma all over our clothing, which would get us in trouble. The garden patch was off limits! Often being caught, we would have to harvest bushels of tomatoes that we would carry back to my grandmother’s kitchen. It was tomato heaven. She was a wizard and had many applications from ratatouille, oven dried, and jam…or just the simple tomato salad that showcased the sweetness and their delicate flavor.

Tip:

• Tomatoes originated in the highlands of the west coast of South America thousands of years ago. They are a fruit, and should never be refrigerated. The acid will peak and the sugar will vanish.

• The best seasoning for tomatoes is Fleur de Sel, extra virgin olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.

• A good investment is to buy a tomato knife. It is safer for you to use and will preserve your other knives’ edge.

• If tomatoes are picked unripened, place in a paper bag to ripen. Or make sure to buy tomatoes on the vine. The most flavorful tomatoes are found at your local farmer’s market…from the vine to your table.

• The heaviest tomato ever recorded weighed at 7 lbs. 12 oz., grown in Oklahoma. The largest tomato plant was 65 feet in Lancashire, England.


Recipe
:

"Heirloom Tomato Carpaccio"
Eggplant Caviar, Aged Romano, Organic Greens, Vincotto, Fleur de Sel, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
serves six


Eggplant Caviar

1 eggplant (about 1 lb.)

1 tsp. and 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. Banyul vinegar

1/4 cup plum wine

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

1/2 tsp. sea salt

** freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup pecans, toasted and finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Rub eggplant with 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil. Pierce skin with tip of knife. Bake on cookie sheet until very soft, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven. When cool enough to handle, peel the skin from the meat. Rough chop meat and drain in colander, pressing out excess moisture. Place large non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoon of olive oil. Sauté eggplant, stirring constantly until golden brown. Add Banyul vinegar, plum wine, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Remove to a cutting board. Chop eggplant to a coarse paste.

 

Hazelnut Verjus Dressing

1/4 cup hazelnut oil

1/4 cup verjus

1 tsp. honey

1 tsp. shallots, minced

1 tsp. tarragon, finely chopped

** sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

Blend all ingredients in mixing bowl. Season to taste.

 

Organic Greens

11/2 cups Mâche salad

1/2 cup Arugula

1/2 cup watercress leaves

1/2 cup basil sprouts

1/2 cup baby red oak leaf lettuce

Combine above ingredients in mixing bowl. Toss gently with 3 tablespoons hazelnut verjus dressing. Reserve remaining dressing for garnish.

 

Presentation

6 large heirloom tomatoes

3 oz. aged cheddar Roomano

2 Tbsp. Vincotto

3 Tbsp. extra virgin avocado oil

** Fleur de Sel and freshly ground black pepper to taste

12 Ciabatta bread, thinly sliced and toasted

Slice tomato as thinly as possible with a serrated knife. Overlap slices covering top half of large chilled plates. Place a mound of organic greens in center of plate. Spoon eggplant caviar at the base of the greens. Shave Roomano cheese atop of greens. Drizzle avocado oil and Vincotto on tomatoes. Sprinkle Fleur de Sel and black pepper on tomatoes. Garnish with Crostini.

 


 

Bon Appetit!!
Executive Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room, La Jolla, California





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